Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Panthera Africa

Me and Benz! 

This one was right up at the front! 

Obi and Oliver- the two lions that started Panthera

            Okay, so for this blog post I’m going to focus mainly on what the volunteers did Saturday morning, the morning after the braai and the day I made my last blog post. I didn’t mention it in that post because it was already pretty long and I felt like this deserved a blog post of its own, so here goes. Because it was a no sea day, Jess had arranged for the vols to spend the morning getting a tour of Panthera Africa, which is a big cat sanctuary about half an hour outside of Gansbaai. Panthera is one of only seven true big cat sanctuaries in South Africa- “true sanctuary” meaning that there’s no breeding, trading, or direct interaction between people and the animals. There are plenty of other places that disguise themselves as sanctuaries, but really are tourist traps intending to make money and nothing more. These places have lots of lion and other cat cubs that they charge people to come in and cuddle with them, disguising it as “conservation” so the tourists often don’t know what’s really going on. When the cats get too big for that they’re moved up to the cat walking stage, where people can again pay to go into fenced in areas and walk around with these juvenile, tame animals. When they outgrow that, they are used for the sick practice of canned hunting, where wealthy trophy hunters can pay to shoot it, or are shot for the use of “traditional medicine” in Asia. These places often keep some adult cats as well, for the sole purpose of breeding more cubs, so the whole process can start over again. Two women saw what was happening through working at one of these places and decided to start a real sanctuary, where these animals would live both protected and as close to wild as they could create. The result was Panthera. I’d heard about this place on my last two trips here, but I’d never actually been before.
            We arrived around ten on Saturday morning and got a guided tour that lasted about two hours. Most of the cats they had were lions, but they also had a caracal, a few leopards including one black leopard, and a pair of tigers. Each animal had their own story, and it sounded like they all had pretty sad lives before coming to Panthera. The tour guide said the two that she thought had the saddest story were two lionesses that came from the same fake “sanctuary”, and were used as breeders, so their entire purpose was to make more cute cubs that tourists could come and pay to cuddle with. One of the two lionesses had a total of seven litters of cubs in only three years, which is definitely not natural for a lion! In every case, the cubs were taken away from her at three to ten days old. And yes, sadly, all of this is legal (trust me, we asked that question).
            All the enclosures at Panthera were big and very natural, with trees to climb and give shade, access to clean water, places to hide, and lots of space to move around. There was one lioness that we all loved to watch- when our group arrived at her enclosure, she came right up to the fence to look at us, and when the tour guide threw in a hard plastic ball, she had a lot of fun batting and rolling it all around the front of the enclosure. Our guide explained that she’d come from Argentina, where she’d been owned by a circus that had closed down. The circus hadn’t actually used her to perform, but just kept her in a cage- she loved toys like the ball because she wasn’t used to having them! She’d only been at Panthera since November.
            We were also introduced to Obi and Oliver, the two lions who were the first residents of Panthera and were really the reason it opened in the first place. They’d previously lived at the “sanctuary” where the two women who opened Panthera had worked, and they felt a special bond with them. So, when the women found out what was really happening and left, they promised those two lions that they’d come back and find a way to get them out of that situation. Thus, Panthera was created! It took about six months, and when they eventually returned to get them, Obi was seriously malnourished- in the pictures he’s so thin he hardly even looks like a lion. The two women said that he was in such bad shape that they were afraid if they tried to move him now he wouldn’t even survive the trip. It took another few months of them regularly going and bringing Obi food for him to improve enough that they could take them both to Panthera with them.
            All in all Saturday at Panthera was a very humbling morning in which we got an unflinching look at the horrific mistreatment and exploitation of those gorgeous cats- but also a firsthand look at the wonderful work being done to help them. Tomorrow morning we’re heading into Cape Town for the day to visit the Two Oceans Aquarium and spend some time hanging out around the waterfront, then hopefully back on the boat on Thursday. This post’s food for thought: “The worst sin toward our fellow creatures is not to hate them, but to be indifferent to them; that’s the essence of inhumanity.”- George Bernard Shaw


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