Tuesday, March 14, 2017

When I See You Again

Shark team! From left to right: Mayke, me, Beth, Cake, Lizzy, Matt, Jerome, Dax, Bee, Julian, Sibo and Grant


            The reason I didn’t make a blog post yesterday certainly wasn’t because it wasn’t eventful; quite the contrary, it was actually so eventful that I didn’t have time to write one up. So, time to recap the madness that the last two days have been. Two nights ago, Cake made a delicious meal for the four of us, which we followed up with the one of the best shark b-movies ever- “Shark in Venice”. Yes, that’s what it was called. You thought Sharknado was dumb? It had nothing on this movie. It was fun to watch it with other shark nerds and point out everything that was wrong with it, from the shark that roared to people being able to talk while scuba diving to the fact that the shark apparently had a sex change halfway through the movie- in some shots it was male, in others it was female. When it was over, we went to bed, knowing that the next morning would be another early start- but it was a volunteer exclusive trip, which are my favorite!
            The following morning, the boat was out on the water at about seven, with all of the volunteers plus Mandla, Grant, Sibo, Bee, and Tom. It was a nice long trip; we stayed out there until a little after noon, enjoying the sharks and the relaxed environment on the boat that always comes with vol exclusive trips. For part of the trip, Lizzy, Beth and I sat up at the bow of the boat talking to Grant. I really don’t think I talk about Grant enough here in my blog. He’s the skipper of the boat, the reason we often have to get up so early to be the first boat out, and we all love him. He’s not South African; he actually used to be a paramedic in the UK, but decided to give that up for a much less stressful life here in Gansbaai. He’s usually pretty quiet around the guests. Not exactly shy, he just kind of likes to hang back I guess. But he relaxes more when it’s just the crew and vols on the boat, and if you get him talking he’s the most hilarious person you’d ever meet.
            One thing I was really reminded of on that trip out was the fact that sharks have such strong individual personalities. We had one come up that hung around our boat for quite a while, but was pretty cautious. He was on the smaller end of what we see around here- less than three meters long. It often seems that the bigger sharks tend to be bolder and more assertive, while the smaller ones are shy and cautious. A few times, as this smaller shark circled near the bow of the boat, he did one of my favorite shark behaviors- spy hopping. Meaning, he lifted his head out of the water to look around. Yes, they actually do that. Dolphins and whales also do it, but I believe great white sharks are the only fish that have been documented to demonstrate that behavior, and it’s really cool to see. It’s just another example that these animals aren’t the mindless killing machines that people once thought they were.
            After a damn near perfect morning out on the boat, we came home, made lunch, and hung out at home for a little while until Jerome picked us all up to take us to the store. We’d decided that we’d all go back to that cave in De Kelders and do a braai there that night; unfortunately, it was some of the volunteers’ last night here, including Lizzy, Beth, and Cake. We decided that we wanted to make their final night super special, and that beautiful cave by the beach seemed like the perfect spot to do so. We got supplies for a braai at the store, came back home for just a few minutes to get stuff ready, then we all piled in the truck and Jerome drove us back to the cave. He said that after work he’d come back there to find us and hang out for a while. We’d also invited Bee, Sibo, and Mandla to join us, but we still weren’t sure if they would. By about five o’clock we’d made it back to the cave and began setting up for the braai. Climbing down that path to the cave two nights before had been hard enough carrying only my camera. Doing it last night with about twenty beers on my back was a whole other story. I nearly plummeted to my death once or twice, but we all made it to the cave unscathed, and then the real fun began. We played a couple rounds of flunkeyball on the beach while there was still light, then went back up to the cave to relax and get the braai ready. We were all really happy to see that, shortly after it got dark, Mandla, Bee and Sibo did show up, followed shortly by Jerome! We all took turns hugging them as they arrived and saying how happy we were that they’d decided to come hang out with us. I had a nice long talk with Mandla as we were eating about South Africa and how volunteers came from all over the world (as I told him, we come to this project because we love the sharks; we return because we love the people). He’s also trying to teach me Xhosa, one of the languages spoken here in South Africa. I’m learning a few words, but it’s pretty hard to pronounce; I’m not good at the clicking!
            We stayed out there eating, drinking and having fun until nearly ten o’clock, when we decided to call it a night. We cleaned up the area and got a ride back home from- you guessed it- Jerome (for the record yes, we do pay him to drive us around).
            This morning we got up early again for one last trip before Lizzy, Beth, Cake, Caitlyn, Matt, and Julian all left- this morning WSP had nine volunteers, tonight we only have three. When we pulled back up to the harbor, we all got off the boat and I took turns hugging Lizzy, Beth and Cake before they ran to finish packing up and I got back on the boat for a second trip. It was so incredibly nice to come back and volunteer with them all again like we did in 2015. I already miss them, but I know that today wasn’t goodbye- it was see you later. We’re already thinking about the next time. Between the four of us, we’ve been on six continents, but we all agreed that we’ve found our own little perfect corner of it here in Gansbaai.
            That second trip was interesting because there was a seal that popped up right beside our boat and hung around it for about half an hour or so, playing in the water right next to the boat. This seal looked big and healthy- not the kind of seal a shark would go for, and this isn’t even the time of year when their main diet is seals, so I think it was pretty safe. A lot of people probably don’t realize this, but a healthy adult seal could actually do quite a bit of damage if it wants to, and most sharks aren’t willing to take the risk. We’ve seen sharks full of scars, quite possibly from seals fighting for their lives, so in general they’ll only go for pups, or sick/injured seals.
            When we pulled back up to the harbor a little after noon, I helped wash the wetsuits, then made lunch. The house has felt so empty and quiet this afternoon and evening- in one day I’ve gone from having three housemates to none. This afternoon I felt the need to get out for a while, so I took a trash bag and went and walked along the beach for about an hour picking up whatever trash I could find. When I got back from that, I went back up to the top volunteer house to put the drying wetsuits into the garage and see if anyone knew the plan for tomorrow. I heard from Jerome that tomorrow is a no sea day, and he wasn’t sure if Tom had a plan for us to do anything else, so my schedule for tomorrow is still kind of up in the air. I have heard that we’re getting another volunteer tomorrow; don’t yet know anything about them or if they’ll be staying at the top house or here with me. We’ll see tomorrow! Okay, sorry for this super long post, but there was just so much news to convey! This post’s food for thought: “Friendship is born at that moment when one person says to another: what! You too? I thought I was the only one.”- C.S. Lewis 

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